Indonesia

I took a trip to Indonesia this fall.   Oren, Julien and myself rallied our respected women into going on a surf trip to Kandui surf resort, which is off the coast of Sumatra. It took us 63 hours to get there from Mammoth. We traveled by car, plane, taxi and boat, what a mission that was. Amanda never complained though, even after spending the night on the floor of the Singapore airport. The surf was really fun the first week. Head high, with a ton of waves for everybody. After a week the swell started to pick up and a few days before we left it was pretty fucking big. We surfed a spot called Hideaway’s and I took a beast right on the head. The guys that own the island were charging so hard and they were calling it 6-7 feet, which translates to 14’ faces in the real world.  I took a few insiders which were fun and then after paddling for, and subsequently missing, my third wave, the ocean unloaded a slab of water which broke ten feet in front of my face. Somehow I didn’t combust on the spot and after being dragged across really shallow coral I paddled down the beach and plopped my ass on the boat for a little breather.  The rest of the day was all time but I made sure that I caught every wave I paddled for.  We all had the time of our lives and plan on going back next year. 

Check out  
http://www.mentawaiislands.com/kandui/index.html

Here's a few pics...